Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin, which the French manufacturer says targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of cells.
The company reports that a new modelling study on menopausal skin showed a shortfall in this mechanism. According to Silab, the deficiency of ferritinophagy observed during menopause induces a lack of bioavailable iron, which in turn leads to premature ageing of the skin. The company calls this phenomenon metallo-aging, and states that it is amplified by UV radiation: UV exposure favours the degradation of iron and ferritin complexes, producing a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress.
How the ingredient is positioned
Metallomia is designed to counter both sides of that picture. Silab says the active relaunches ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating the provision of iron and restarting the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron and ferritin complexes, it is also intended to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. Through this targeted mechanism, the manufacturer reports that metallo-aging is significantly reduced.
By combining a relaunch of iron delivery with a limitation of uncontrolled iron release, the positioning addresses the same mineral from two directions: restoring supply in skin that lacks bioavailable iron, and curbing the oxidative burst associated with UV-driven breakdown of iron and ferritin complexes. Both effects are attributed by the manufacturer to the ferritinophagy pathway.
The results cited by Silab come from testing on volunteers. From day 14, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was described as revitalised, with a reinforced skin barrier and a complexion that appeared unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. In a further test, Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure; lipid peroxidation was prevented and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia, Silab turned to the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners, and says the supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the mucilage content of the roots, a specific enzyme engineering process was developed to extract polyuronides.
The patented ingredient is recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution, which the company describes as easy to formulate. Silab states that Metallomia complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% according to ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.